Materials glossary

METALS OF S.A.M.A

The raw, materials are eco-responsible and carefully selected according to their quality.

Often in my creations I use recycled metals.

SILVER 925 Ag

I use 925 sterling silver, a high-quality alloy made of 92.5% pure silver. Each piece is meticulously polished or oxidized to different degrees, creating unique finishes and intensities.

Over time, exposure to daily life products and the natural pH of the skin can cause the color of the silver to fade. This is a natural characteristic of sterling silver. To maintain its beauty, clean your jewelry regularly with a soft cloth and store it in a cool, dry place.

With proper care, your 925 sterling silver jewelry will retain its elegance and charm for years to come.

GOLD Au 18K 14K 10K

18K Gold: 18K gold is known for its vibrant, rich yellow color, making it ideal for those who prefer a traditional or classical look. Its saturated hue is particularly flattering on darker skin tones. I use 18K gold primarily for plating pieces, as its bright yellow color provides a striking contrast.

14K Gold: 14K gold retains the classic shiny yellow appearance of traditional gold while offering enhanced durability. It is stronger and more resistant to scratches than higher karat gold, though it still requires careful handling. The addition of alloys in 14K gold gives it a lighter tone compared to 18K gold.

10K Gold: 10K gold has a significantly less rich yellow tone than 14K or 18K gold, appearing paler due to its lower gold content. It is often used for more affordable jewelry options while still maintaining a gold appearance.

White and Rose Gold: By alloying gold with metals like palladium or platinum, you can create white gold, which has a paler finish. Including copper in the alloy results in rose gold, with a rosy tint. Both white and rose gold are popular for special orders.

By understanding these differences, you can choose the right type of gold to suit your preferences and needs.

Solid vs. Gold-Plated Jewelry: Solid gold jewelry is entirely made of gold and is more valuable than gold-plated pieces. The purity of solid gold is measured in karats, with higher karat ratings indicating greater gold content. For example, 24K gold is pure gold, while 18K gold is 75% gold and 25% other metals.

BRASS Cu3Zn2

Brass, an alloy of copper (Cu) and zinc (Zn), is featured in some of my designs, often using vintage brass with varying levels of patination. The color of brass is a muted yellow, similar to gold but duller. Depending on the design, some pieces are intended to be worn with a fairly bright gold appearance, while others have a darker finish.

When exposed to air, humidity, and natural body chemicals, brass gradually darkens from bright gold to a bronze hue. This natural darkening process is known as patina, and it adds a unique character to each piece over time.

If you prefer to maintain the bright gold color of your brass jewelry, you can easily restore it using a homemade paste made from vinegar and salt. Simply rub the mixture on the jewelry to bring back its shine. However, you can also choose to let your brass jewelry age gracefully, embracing the evolving patina.

COPPER Cu

I use copper in my designs for its irreplaceable durability and unique reddish-brown color. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, copper jewelry offers several benefits, such as relieving stiff joints and arthritis pain. Copper is an energetically conductive metal known for its anti-inflammatory properties.

Wearing copper can enhance the conductivity of positive energy. Many who wear copper jewelry describe the experience as subtly energizing, grounding, harmonizing, and uplifting.

BRONZE CuSn

I use bronze, particularly for larger pieces, due to its ability to expand slightly before setting. This property allows for the creation of intricate details and complex designs. Bronze is resistant to corrosion, including seawater corrosion, making it durable in various conditions.

Its color is a distinctive reddish-brown. While bronze is hard, it is also somewhat brittle. For these reasons, I use bronze in my jewelry exclusively for special and unique orders.

finishing, finishing...WHAT IS JEWELRY FINISHING?

Jewelry finishing refers to the various processes that add the final touches to any piece of jewelry. These processes encompass a wide range of techniques, from polishing to chemical applications.

These manipulations drastically change the appearance and enhance the distinct personality of each item, ensuring that every piece is unique and visually captivating.

PLATING

Plating is a popular method for coating metal, where a base metal is coated with a thin layer of precious metal through electroplating. The primary purpose of jewelry plating is to protect the base metal from tarnishing while enhancing its decorative qualities.

For silver jewelry, plating is crucial since silver can tarnish when exposed to airborne contaminants and human sweat, which contain sulfur compounds. Plating helps maintain the jewelry’s luster over time.

Using different plating baths, we can achieve various color options, including:

24K yellow gold (clear gloss)
18K light yellow gold
18K rose gold
Platinum
White rhodium

Gold plating typically has a thickness of around 0.5 microns, with the color influenced by the alloy composition. For example, rose gold includes copper, which affects its hue, ranging from light pink to almost red.

Rhodium plating offers a lighter color than platinum or palladium and has high resistance to sulfides. Most rhodium plating is between 0.75 to 1.0 microns thick, making it suitable for rings and other jewelry that endure wear. Black rhodium plating shares similar properties but features a deep black color that complements other shades.

Rhodium is often used to plate 925 sterling silver, providing a shiny, mirror-like finish while protecting against scratches and tarnishing. However, it is a brittle metal that cannot be shaped into jewelry on its own and has a volatile price.

Black rhodium plating shares similar properties but features a deep black color that pairs well with various shades. Rhodium is often used to plate 925 sterling silver, providing a shiny, mirror-like finish that protects against scratching and tarnishing. However, it is a brittle metal that cannot be shaped into jewelry on its own.

Rhodium plating does not affect the purity of the sterling silver beneath; it simply adds a protective layer. Keep in mind that both gold and rhodium coatings are not permanent and can dull, scratch, or discolor with normal use. Proper care can help extend the life of your sterling silver jewelry.

OXIDIZED/BLACKEND

Oxidation refers to the blackening, discoloration, or tarnish that occurs on jewelry. It is a natural process in which metal molecules react with oxygen in the air, often accelerated by factors such as body chemistry, acids, certain medications, cleaning chemicals, moist skin, and menopause.

Oxidation begins as soon as a piece of jewelry comes into contact with air, making it impossible to completely avoid. Blackened or oxidized silver is genuine sterling silver that has undergone a chemical process to darken its surface. This process mimics natural tarnishing, creating an attractive dark patina made up of a layer of silver sulfide on the exterior of the metal.

This color is achieved by heating the metal to a high temperature, causing it to release impurities and undergo a natural colorization process. This method allows the metal to develop a rich and unique patina from within, without the use of any added chemicals.

The transformation reveals a stunning array of colors and enhances the overall appearance of the piece, resulting in a finish that is both organic and one-of-a-kind. Each jewelry piece showcases distinct variations in color and texture, reflecting the individuality of the material and the craftsmanship involved, ultimately adding depth and character to the item.

RUSTIC

High-polished, mirror finishes are created using a polishing wheel that buffs the item to a brilliant shine. This process involves a specialized wheel made from abrasive materials that, when combined with a high-speed machine, effectively removes any rough or blurry spots on the metal surface.

The polishing technique not only smooths out imperfections but also enhances the depth and clarity of the metal, resulting in a stunning, reflective surface. This sleek finish elevates the overall appearance of the piece, making it look sophisticated and well-crafted. A high-polished finish is especially popular in jewelry, as it captures light beautifully, adding to the visual appeal of the item.

POLISHED

Hammered finishes can range from lightly struck to heavily hammered, allowing for significant variation in texture. By adjusting the intensity of the strikes, you can create different effects. For example, a ball pein hammer produces a dimpled look, while a cross pein hammer creates linear patterns.

Texturing hammers with interchangeable heads offer a variety of patterns, providing even more creative options. The scratched and brushed look is another popular finish that adds depth and character. This technique creates fine lines or scratches, resulting in a soft, matte appearance that beautifully contrasts with high-polished finishes. Hammered and textured finishes enhance the visual interest and tactile quality of the jewelry.

Hammered finishes

Sanding satin finishes in jewelry creates a smooth, textured surface with a soft sheen, striking a balance between matte and glossy. This finish is achieved using fine-grit sandpaper or sanding blocks to gently abrade the metal, resulting in a uniform, brushed appearance.

The technique allows for subtle light reflection while minimizing glare, making it ideal for a more understated look. By varying the pressure and direction of the sanding, artisans can achieve different levels of softness and depth. Satin finishes are popular in rings, bracelets, and pendants, adding a contemporary feel while showcasing the metal’s natural beauty. With proper care, these finishes can remain elegant and sophisticated over time.

Sanding Satin Finishes

materials

leather for the jewellers comming from recacling

allergies

For millions of people, allergies stand in the way of enjoying certain types of metal. Gold itself isn’t usually a problem; no matter the purity of the gold you’re working with, the gold shouldn’t present an issue. Accordingly, higher purities are less likely to result in irritation. Issues arise with certain types of alloying metals.